Glass Coating. How to properly apply and maintain.
The question of how to properly apply a quartz or glass coating to your car is a very popular one in the detailing world, be it from professional detailers or DIY enthusiasts alike. While each coating has its own characteristics and needs, there are many similarities and basics that can be applied across the board regardless of (good) brand. For this demonstration, we at the Esoteric Learning Center have chosen to use the popular Miyabi Coat from Kamikaze. Not only does this Japanese-made coating have great durability and beautiful looks, but it’s also one of the absolute easiest glass coatings to apply in the entire detailing industry. Unfortunately many companies out there in the business try to hide design flaws by saying that the coating has to be challenging to apply in order for it to be good…that couldn’t be further from the truth!
Unfortunately many companies out there in the business try to hide design flaws by saying that the coating has to be challenging to apply in order for it to be good…that couldn’t be further from the truth!
Before we get started into the instructions on how to properly apply a glass or quartz coating, let’s take a quick look at what they are.
What are glass / quartz / ceramic coatings, and are they worth it?
Glass coating, quartz coating, ceramic coating…call them what you will, but the fact is that they’re the new face of durable automotive protection products.
We now have new technologies available to us in the detailing industry that significantly increase the durability of protection upwards of 18-24 (real) months. These new technologies come in the form of semi-permanent coatings that provide the ultimate barrier between your paint (and wheels…and trim), and the harsh elements that your car is exposed to on a daily basis. Don’t buy into the wild claims of 7, 10, or 25 year coatings, or the dreaded “lifetime” coatings. I can write a completely separate article on why that’s a lot of marketing hype, smoke and mirrors, etc. But for now let’s make it simple…coated cars need to be maintained, and they will still get scuffs, scratches, stains, etc over time, so plan on having the car re-polished and re-coated after a couple of years because unless it’s a complete garage queen, it will need it!
Not only will these coatings provide a protective barrier, but they also add gloss and depth to the finish, and they make subsequent cleaning of the vehicle much easier since dirt and other contaminants won’t stick to the surface as easily. When you wash your car afterwards, the paint will continuously have that “freshly waxed” and slick feeling to it. Given the fact that the products and application costs associated are much more than a traditional wax, many may ask if glass coating a car is worth it. Given the amount of time and maintenance it saves you, plus the great looks that it provides, the answer is an unequivocal yes (this is based on my opinion as an automotive enthusiast, not as a salesman)!
How to apply glass coating to your car, featuring Miyabi Coat by Kamikaze.
Now that you’re ready to apply glass coating, let’s go over your list of product needs as well as considerations to take.
While you don’t have to machine polish the car first, it’s always best in order to remove any scratches, swirls, haze, or any other imperfections that prevent the true color from shining through. The better the finish at the start, the better the finish after applying your coating. Applying your coating on a car that hasn’t been fully machine polished will work, it’s just that you won’t be able to see its full potential without it.
Items needed:
- Kamikaze Miyabi Coat. We use it sparingly, so just a 30ml bottle is enough to do (at least) 2 cars with 1 coat each, or 1 car with 2 coats. Multiple coats are not necessary.
- Gyeon Prep. This is an absolute must to ensure that your finish is completely clean and free from any type of polishing oils, wax, or anything else that could prevent a good bond to the painted surface.
- Applicator kit. You’ve heard the old saying that you want to use the right tool for the job, and this is it! The foam block is re-usable, and the soft micro-suede cloths are disposable.
- High quality microfiber towel. Use these with Gyeon Prep to get the surface ready. By using a very high quality microfiber, you have much less of a chance of marring the finish.
- 2 short nap general purpose microfiber towels. These are for your coating removal, so you want the towels to be brand new (preferably washed once). You will throw these away once you are finished.
Step 1…prep your surface(s).
Prepping the surface for application can have a few different definitions depending on what level you’re going for. If you’re machine polishing the surface, you’ll want to wash, decontaminate / clay, machine polish, and then use Gyeon Prep to fully remove all of the polishing oils from the paint.
If you’re not machine polishing, then you simply want to fully wash the car with a pH neutral soap (use a soap with NO waxes, sealants, or polymers). We would recommend using something like Gyeon Bath, or Sonax Car Wash, and using a very soft wash mitt. After the car is washed and dried, use Gyeon Prep and your high quality microfiber towel to thoroughly wipe down the painted surfaces. Note…unless you are machine polishing your car, we do not recommend claying the surface for decontamination. You CAN and WILL mar / scratch the surface during this process, regardless of what clay and clay lube that you use. At the Esoteric Detail studios, we ONLY clay when we are polishing! Important safety tip noted…now let’s move on.
Step 2…apply the coating.
First, open the bottle of coating. Since these coatings harden, there’s always a chance that there are crystallized pieces around the top of the bottle. These crystallized pieces could badly scratch your paint, so be sure to carefully inspect the threaded area of the bottle, as well as the top dispenser. Use a paper towel or old rag to fully wipe it down, or even used compressed air to clean it out.
Now take your foam block, and wrap it with one of your micro-suede applicators. Be sure that the cloth is completely free of debris that could potentially scratch the surface. Once this is ready, pour a handful of drops to the applicator…more at first, and less as the cloth starts to get saturated after a few sections.
We’re going to be working on small sections at a time, and we’re going to start with the top, horizontal surfaces first (hood, roof, trunk lid). Working in straight lines with little to no pressure (we’re applying TO the surfaces, not trying to rub it IN to the surface!), apply the coating. You should be able to see that you’re getting complete coverage, and you want to simply try for a thin, even application. First apply in one direction in straight lines, then go back over it in an opposite, criss-cross pattern to ensure an even coverage. Repeat this process until you have an entire section done (hood, for instance). Now step back and inspect the surface to make sure you didn’t miss any spots.
Some coatings need shorter time between application and removal than Kamikaze Miyabi Coat, so consult the manufacturer if you’re using something different. But if you are using Kamikaze, then you can typically wait 5-10 minutes between application and removal. It’s nowhere near as fussy as other coatings can be! You should be able to apply to 2 sections (i.e. quarter panel and door) before starting the removal process. If in high humidity conditions, or if you find the removal to get a bit sticky, then shorten your time before removal.
Step 3…remove the coating residue.
Now that we have applied our coating, and waited 5-10 minutes, it’s time to remove the residue. We will do this using our 2 new general purpose microfiber towels. Here’s a quick tip if using 2 of the same towel…mark one of the towels with a magic marker, and designate as your removal towel #1. You’d be surprised at how quickly you can get the 2 towels mixed up during the application process, so make life easier on yourself.
Starting with your removal towel #1, gently wipe down an entire panel (quarter panel) using mostly straight-line motions. This first wipe should get about 90% of the residue from the surface. Now take towel #2, and go back over the same area using the same motion and technique. Remember, we’re barely using any pressure whatsoever! Now that this area is done, move on to the next and repeat the process. Once those two sections are removed, you can set your towels aside and start applying to the next 2 sections of the car. You’ll keep repeating this process until you have finished the entire vehicle. On most cars, this process should take 30-45 minutes.
If during the removal process you get any coating or residue onto trim, glass, or any other area that you don’t want it, then just quickly remove it with your towel and you shouldn’t have any problems.
If you allow the product to sit too long, and it becomes sticky or tacky during the removal process, then just apply more product onto that section, and remove it immediately.
Once you’re finished, throw away your micro-suede cloth, and your 2 removal towels.
NOTE for Kamikaze ISM users: If you are applying ISM Coat, follow the exact same instructions for applying Miyabi Coat, but don’t let the coating set as long before removal. In hotter or more humid conditions, we recommend applying and removing ISM Coat one panel at a time as opposed to 2 panels for the Miyabi Coat.
Step 4…wait, and let it properly cure!
Once you have completed the removal process, I recommend that you carefully inspect the car to make sure there’s no residue that you missed. A flashlight is good for this process!
While your coating now looks good on the car, it needs to cure and crystallize so that it looks its best. Most of this curing and changing in looks will happen during the first 24 hours. While you can drive the car after even just a few hours, it’s better to let it sit until you know it’s gone through most of its curing process. And you definitely want to keep it from the rain, getting wet, or being in any dew sitting outside during that first 24 hours.
If you have IR curing lights, you can significantly speed up the curing process in as little as 10 minutes per section. But that’s for a different article and a very small group of people…
After-care for your glass coated car.
While coatings make maintenance much easier, you still have to take care of them! Unfortunately I hear of detailers / manufacturers telling people that coated vehicles need no maintenance afterwards, as if some magical solution was just applied. The reality however, is that you do indeed need to take care of them properly for them to last to their fullest potential.
For Kamikaze coatings, we HIGHLY recommend using their OverCoat. It’s designed as a sacrificial layer to the base coating of Miyabi, and it’s extremely easy to use on occasion. While by itself OverCoat can last up to 6 months, I recommend applying it every month or two during your drying process while washing the car. It may take an extra 10 minutes at most…a very good investment in time to get the most out of your coating.
Here are a few tips:
- Do NOT use automatic car washes! These devils of the auto cleaning industry can and will (badly) scratch and swirl your coated vehicle just like they will an un-coated vehicle. Stay clear of them…
- Use a shampoo that’s designed for maintaining coated vehicles. We like to use Gyeon Bath as our maintenance shampoo.
- Use maintenance sprays such as Kamikaze OverCoat, or Gyeon Cure to act as a sacrificial layer.
- Do not use quick detailers or waxes on your coated car. When you do, you lose the characteristics of the coating, and gain the characteristics of the wax or quick detailer.
- Be sure to use high quality microfiber towels to maintain your vehicle, and care for them properly. These are the ONLY items that should ever touch your paint, so the better they are, the better care they will take for your vehicle.
And to make this entire article more complete, we have the following video that takes you through the entire process!
Your properly coated vehicle should look great for years, especially if you maintain it well. By following the tips and guides in this article, you will be able to apply, and maintain your coating like a true professional.
Here are a few shots of Kamikaze-coated vehicles:
If you have any questions or comments, please list them below. Also feel free to share this coating tutorial on your favorite automotive forum and / or social media.
Excellent article and video Todd!
Thanks Mike…glad you liked them. And also thanks for driving all the way from Maryland to visit us last weekend!
Looks absolutely stunning! I have been researching a complete ‘system’ that is simple for a DIY, yet offers long term protection with minimal periodic upkeep. The Q2 bathe, Q2 prep, ISM Coat, Overcoat should do the trick for what I am looking for. As such, I’m placing my first order with you. The detailed instructions and videos made the difference for me when comparing other glass coatings on the market. Thanks and i look forward to sharing the results once completed.
Thanks Luke, glad you found it to be informative. Since we are actually working with these products every single day, it really gives us the advantage over other manufacturers or suppliers. And thank you as well for your order!
Are there any waterless/rinse-less washes that are acceptable for coated (e.g. ISM Coat) vehicles? Specifically, can you use Optimum No Rinse periodically when a normal two bucket system is not practical?
Sure you can use them, but it’s not optimal in the least bit. When you use a product like that, which includes polymers, you gain the properties of the polymers and lose the properties / characteristics of the coating. That’s also why you wouldn’t want to use a quick detailer or wax on top of coated vehicles.
I understand…stick with Gyuan Bathe and/or Foam which is meant for washing/detailing coated vehicles. That is enough for me to steer clear of no rinse. I saw your online shop carried it so I thought I would ask the question before adding something unnecessary. I was looking at options during cold winter months when normal two bucket method is more complicated Thanks again.
Todd, from what I can see, the coatings look amazing. I’m very interested in ISM. How does it and Mayabi compare to CQuartz UK, and CQuartz FINEST? Thanks a lot,
Matt
So I just finished coating the my 2012 BMW 335i in Metallic Black Sapphire. This product brings out the metallic like never before, another one of my friends said you can see it so much more clearly now. So a big plus for this and makes me enjoy this paint even more.
Now on to my question, when do we want to apply overcoat to the car? How long of the cure time do we wait to start washing the car like normal?
Thanks.
I’m glad to hear you had such great results!
You can apply Overcoat in as little as a few hours after coating the car. You’d normally want to use Overcoat after a few washes. You can simply spray it into your drying towel to make the process even quicker. And remember, a little goes a long way!
Got couple questions:
How do you de-coat the Kamikaze coating?
Can I use things like scratch remover, e.g. Turtle Wax Scratch remover on the Kamikaze ISM/Miyabi coating, will they damage or remove the coating?
Cheers
The only way to remove it is through machine polishing. You do not want to use something like the product you mentioned since there’s a good chance it would damage the coating.
Hi Todd
The ISM coating seems to be more expensive than the Miyabi. I’ve read a little about each coating, but could you please elaborate on the two and which you would choose over the other as recommendation for customers?
I have an Audi S3 Sedan in the Metallic/Pearl Panther Black.
Cheers
Hi Todd great video, just a quick question about the ISM coating. Can you apply more one layer to the vehicle , if yes how long in between applications.
Regards
Mark
ISM likes just one layer. A good combination however is a base coat of Miyabi, and a top coat of ISM. In that case, you’d give it a few hours between coats.
Thanks Todd , That’s exactly the Process I have decided to go with , 1 layer of Miyabi Coat and One ISM Coat. My Own Black Nissan Gtr R35 looks amazing. Thanks Again..
Regards
Mark.
Hi Todd, an ISM Coat question. When you remove the coat what should it look like at that point? Mine looked like an oily coat and kind of moved around when I was using the towel to buff it. In some places I would get the texture of the first towel imprinted in the coating and then have trouble smoothing this out with the second towel. Three hours later it seems that I need not have worried, as the dark patches seem to have disappeared 🙂 The car already looks awesome, so I can’t wait until tomorrow with the curing effect. Best wishes,
Andrew.
Hi Todd, I have a vehicle preparation question for you. I just recently purchased the ISM coating, Q2M prep, etc. from your company, great prices by the way, for a new car I order a few months ago, 2016 corvette. I just picked the vehicle up from the dealer yesterday and want to prepare the car correctly. Since it is brand new, is there anything else I should do after washing before the Q2M prep? I have seen articles about using half alcohol and water to strip any coatings. Second question, I have chrome plated aluminum wheels, can I use the ISM on them to address the brake dust buildup? Thanks, Mike
Mike,
Thank you for your orders!
Just give it a good strong wash, followed by a wipedown or two of the Gyeon Prep you purchased from us…that should be all you need for a new car.
As for the Corvette wheels, you could use ISM, but it wouldn’t last as long as other coatings would. I would rather apply Gyeon Rim, or Gyeon Mohs. 2 coats of each and you would be good to go!
Todd….thanks for making these instructional videos….they are a huge help and they sell the product. I have just finished up machine polishing my Torch Red Stingray with ProCare Essance and ProCare Finishing Polish. I have received my order from you for the Kamikaze Kit. After reading your article found on this page and watching the video a couple of times I still have a couple questions for you. First, as you know the C7 has some hard places to reach with the block/suede microfiber applicator, how do you get in these tight places and around the emblems/letters on the nose and tail? I was thinking maybe using a q-tip but sometimes they leave fuzz which I don’t want. Second question….you have said not to apply waxes after coating the car….then I was reading about Kamikaze Infinity Wax where it provides the ultimate in paint protection even over top of Miyabi….so my question is should I use it and can I see the difference in adding it over top of Miyabi Coating? Thanks in advance for your help. Jim B.
Hello Jim, and I’m glad to hear that you find the articles and videos useful! I promise we’ll be doing more soon…
For those tight areas, I would just use the micro suede cloth by itself, or wrap a part of it around a q-tip…that way you can access tight areas without leaving fuzz!
The Infinity Wax is completely different from any other waxes since it’s a hybrid blend of glass coating as well.
For me, I prefer either a second coat of Miyabi done at least 2-3 hours later, or a coat of ISM Coat on top of the Miyabi.
If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask!
Todd…thank you for the fast response….really appreciate it very much. I will take your advice and apply the second coat of Miyabi a few hours after the initial coat. Great idea on wrapping the q-tip. I hope you post more photos and videos of your new Torch Red Z06. Really looking forward to see what all you do to that beautiful new Z! Thanks so much….Jim B.
Todd….one final question before I start this process. The real end result that I want to achieve for my Torch Red Stingray is “GLOSS and DEPTH” as this car is primarily a garage queen. Using the Kamikaze product and starting with the Geyon wipe down and Miyabi….is this all I need or do you recommend another step. If I need another product then I want to order and have it prior to starting the project. Thanks!
Jim,
Unless you plan on machine polishing, there’s nothing else that you need to get it ready to go. Please be sure to let me know how it goes!
Thanks Todd….I have already machine polished….about 15 hours worth….the paint looks awesome. I’m awaiting an LED light set up to enhance my work area…soon as it arrives I will lay on 2 coats of Miyabi as you suggested.
Todd….I have done the two coats of Miyabi as you suggested and then did a wipe with Overcoat. My car seems like it has a lot of static electricity since all the rubbing….I was using the RED microfiber towels that I purchased from you and it seems like I was moving dust around and not getting it off the paint. Is this normal after application? I thought about washing the car but then thought I’d ask you first. Miyabi is everything I thought it would be and the Torch Red paint is very glossy. Thanks
Jim…I would imagine that should die down after it gets washed / rinsed the first time. Just make sure you have given the coating plenty of time to cure (a week preferably) before doing this. If the car hasn’t been driven or dirty, then you could just rinse it off and that should help out. Also, make sure that your towels have been washed before using them, and put them on the lowest setting in the dryer with no fabric softener, dryer sheets, etc. Enjoy that glossy paint!
Thanks Todd for your help. Its been a couple of weeks now and my car is really put away for the winter months….next warm day I’ll give it a rise and see if that helps. It was a bright sunny and dry day here and I wanted to get it out in the sun and see what it looked like….tired of looking at it under the garage lights! I wish it looked like your Z…..while it looks excellent….I’m not in the same league with you and your work. Your Z is incredible!.
What is the shelf life (opened and unopened) of ISM Coat and Infinity wax? I opened and used about half last August/September. Thanks in advance.
Can i use this on a motor bike to protect the paint and will the product be shipped to India?
Hi Todd! Thanks for the informative post. What you have described is so much better than spending thousands to apply an inferior coating.
Anyway, I recently bought a Pearl White Subaru BRZ. The front bumper has accumulated a few super tiny paint chips from stones and what not unfortunately. There is another small chip on the hood. Never going to drive on the road where this happened again but now I am thinking of fixing those imperfections and coating the car. What would be my steps in getting rid of those imperfections and then applying a coat. I was thinking of doing a Miyabi (2x) + OverCoat. Should I take it to a detailer for some touchup followed by a polish and then coat it myself or can just a touchup followed by wash would do? I am also wondering if the gloss of ISM will affect the pearl finish of the car in any way.
hello , Todd…
thanks for the article , really helpful …
if i apply Miyabi as base coat & ISM as top coat , how long i must wait before i can applied ISM coat ?! …
Regards.
Reza.
Hello Tod,
Thank you very much for the arictle it was very informative . 🙂
Silly question sorry ..but i am a newbie.
I had my car coated with Cquartz couple days ago. after picking it up from teh shop I let the car sit for the aprox 12 hours then due to weather conditions the car got really dusty . since it takes up to 48 hours for coating to dry, my concern is will the coating “cure/ dry” with dust in it. i am concerned there is a mixture of dust underneath that layer. do you recommend i wash it?
thanks in advance
Typically speaking, that wouldn’t be a problem because the surface should have been completely dry before it left the shop. While it’s not the preferred way to handle a freshly coated vehicle, it shouldn’t be detrimental to the surface. Most coatings also recommend that you don’t wash it for the first week afterwards since they will continue to harden for up to 5 days or so.
Question: My new Vette has Expel film over the whole front clip. Is it safe to use your coating on the film?
Yes it is. Kamikaze is a non-solvent based coating, and is safe to use on top of paint protection film…we do it every single day!
hello,
i was looking for a glass coating for my car and i saw your site which i found it very great! i live here in the Philippines and i’m planning to buy a glass coating for my brand new BMW series 5 here in my country but the difference is, it’s not the DIY thing, somebody will do it and you need to leave your car for at least one day and it’s too costly here, how can i buy this products? do you any distributors here in the Philippines? please let me know, thanks.
Best regards,
Noel Velasquez
Todd,
What a great coating…I did two coats of the Miyabi and it looks fantastic. I know you say not to use “toppers” on the coating such as spray waxes and quick detailers because the coating will take-on those properties. Sometimes I have no option but to use a QD. My question is: if I use a basic QD (not quick wax) and it leaves polymers behind; when I then wash the vehicle with Gyeon Bathe, will it remove those QD properties and get me back down to coating properties again?
Hi Todd!
I ordered the Miyabi kit along with the ISM and artificial clear coat back in March.
I have read on the description of the artificial clear coat that it is a good “base” for the miyabi and ISM coats.
3 questions:
1. Is it ok if I apply both the miyabi and ISM coatings on top of the artificial clear coat?
2. If yes, how long would I let the artificial clear coat “cure/dry” before applying the miyabi coat? (also for the miyabi coat before applying the ISM coat)
3. Is the kamikaze microfiber pad reusable?
Thanks in advance and more power!
I have a couple of questions regarding the Kamikaze Miyabi/ISM coating
1) Does this coating go well on a car with freshly applied paint sealant few days ago (2 coats of Menzerna Powerlock over a coat of Duragloss 105) ( concerns about adhesion/bonding)?
2) Is there a better applicator kit than the one with the block and a suede microfiber wrapped around it? Something like a foam applicator that is monolithic and not have two pieces where you have to grip the suede cloth on top of the applicator block? I foresee myself dropping that suede cloth by accident a few times 🙂
1. No…you want to be sure that you completely strip any and all traces of waxes, sealants, etc. before applying this or any other type of coating. Gyeon Prep is your friend for this, but given the products you have on the surface, you may need to be extremely liberal with it to completely remove them.
2. You simply don’t get as good of a coverage using something else. Here’s a helpful tip…cut a slice in the sides of the foam block (length-wise) so that you can fold the suede applicator over the edge, and tuck it into the slit foam. You won’t have to “hold” them together when you do this.
Todd
Thanks for your quick reply.
So when you say strip the sealant, you mean like spray the Gyeon Prep and wipe it once or twice right? Hope I am getting this right.
The sealant I have on is 100% synthetic (Menzerna) and it is probably cured by now. I don’t have any kind of Carnauba type natural waxes on the paint. Just the cured paint sealant.
Thanks for the tip on the applicator. I will try that method 🙂
Todd
Couple of more questions on the Kamikaze Miyabi coating.
As I was browsing thru the Gyeon products the Gyeon booster caught my attention. Would this be a product you would recommend on top of layers of Miyabi? I am drawn to the hydrophobicity of the Booster product.
Also how does a product like Gyeon Wet Coat behave on top of the Miyabi coating and if it is recommended? (I see in one of your earlier posts you discouraged from using QDs and Rinseless washes over Miyabi).
So if I put a coat of Gyeon Booster over 2 coats of Miyabi, how much time should I wait after the second coat for Gyeon Booster?
Also the Kamikaze overcoat..would I put that on before Booster or After booster?
And one last question…Are Kamikaze Overcoat and Gyeon Cure similar products that I need one or the other or I would benefit from using both products in tandem for maintenance?
Your answers are much appreciated,
You don’t want to go with the “more layers is better” approach on this. If you do 2 coats of Miyabi, then maintain it with Kamikaze Overcoat, then you will have all of the protection and insane hydrophobic properties that you want / need! I would recommend just washing it with Gyeon Bathe (not Bathe+), and occasionally topping it off with Overcoat. Overcoat and Cure are similar, but Overcoat is more durable. I hope this helps.
Thanks Todd. Yep, that helps. Guess I was getting carried away with too many products. Simple is better like you mention.
Hi Todd
I have had my car coated with Kamikaze ISM and Infinity, also got the artificial clear coat as I have soft paint. (2016 Honda Civic Type R UK) I am using Overcoat as my top up.
Overcoat on a black car seems hard to buff off on a dry car but the results are amazing.
What is the best shampoo in your opinion? I am currently using Zaino.
Gyeon Bathe and why not Bath+?
Thanks in advance
Sat
I recently purchased a Jeep Cherokee and am looking for a sealant coating. Is the Miyabi really that easy to use? What products would you suggest and is buffing required for prep?
Hi Todd!
I purshased the Miyabi coat and accesories to coat my car…..
It looks fantastic!
My Audi RS5 looks so good…….
Shine and reflection is so crystal clear!!
I coated the car yesterday, But i missed two small spots.
What do you recomendó me to do?………
Should I polish again that Panel(hood), or should i lay Down another layer
Of miyabi coat?
Regards…….
Hey Todd,
I just wanted to say that your product is exactly what you promised it was! Just finished a 2017 Viper ACR and it could not have came out any better! I’ve been researching these products for over 2 years now and finally made the leap towards getting it done, and I plan on doing many more exotic Vehicles using your products. There were literally no issues in applying your product I plan to use the Overcoat as well. Just one question for you today Todd so I noticed upon inspecting the vehicle for the final time that there was a small drop of what I assume is the ISM on the hood, if I wanted to smooth this out would I have to reapply the ism? Your product has been on the vehicle for roughly two and a half days now. Just want to know if I have to color sand and buff this out or if there’s an easy way to take care of this. Thanks again Todd!